| technological and scientific advances have occurred in | | | | skin care product do not exactly match the labels, this |
| those past 5 years than in the previous 50. | | | | is because the labeling requirement is governed by the |
| Let start with Peptides, Peptides is a purely chemical | | | | INCI “International Nomenclature of Cosmetic |
| product from synthesis. Many forms of peptides for | | | | Ingredients” which often use chemical name |
| the Skin Care industry; where first developed by | | | | instead of the name of the product. But the owner of |
| scientists in Switzerland, France and Spain under | | | | the trade name of the product often spend |
| different forms. Peptides are chains of amino acids. | | | | considerable among of money to advertise their |
| For example insulin is a polypeptide. Very often you will | | | | product to create a demand and thus pushing the |
| see on the Skin Care labels: Polypeptide with is a | | | | manufacturer to use it. So the manufacturer use in is |
| generic name with no specific reference to the length | | | | products he advertise it on is printed material, often |
| of the chain. Other time you will read dipeptide (two | | | | with a percentage paid by the supplier of the raw |
| amino acids) tripeptide (three amino acids) and so on, | | | | material to perpetuate the demand. Their is |
| pentapeptide has a chain of five amino acids. They | | | | approximately 2 dozen of suppliers and the most |
| are usually followed by a name, telling by which | | | | commons are those one. |
| method they where synthesized. What must interest | | | | As an example of products you should look for with |
| you is that: they are in the product you are buying. | | | | their INCI name? |
| Some peptides have the ability to regenerate collagen | | | | SYN®-AKE = dipeptide, Swiss manufacturer |
| other to regenerate skin cells and other will act on your | | | | ARGIRELINE = hexapeptide-8 Spanish manufacturer |
| blood glucose level like insulin. | | | | MATRIXYL = Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 French |
| Do not spend money on products which do not | | | | manufacturer |
| contain at least one form of peptides, those are old | | | | VIALOX = Pentapeptide-3 Spanish manufacturer |
| formulations and old products or raw material in stock | | | | Products which are claiming Botox replacement with |
| in the manufacturer warehouse. Changing the | | | | no needles are formulated with VIALOX. |
| manufacturing process will necessitate the scraping of | | | | But these claims are at the limit of what is acceptable |
| tons of unusable raw material which is not compatible | | | | as the truth in labeling is concerned. It’s true that |
| with peptides formulations; and also the need to take in | | | | Vialox act similarly to components like curare a |
| consideration the millions of dollars already spent on | | | | naturally derived substance that is as active Botulinum |
| packaging and advertising contracts which cannot be | | | | neurotoxin type A.Vialox is a peptide that acts in a |
| changed. The peptides pose formidable formulation | | | | manner similar to that of Tubocurarin, main active |
| problems in their adequate absorption and retention | | | | compound of curare although is composition is |
| under skin surface, and stability. The copper peptides | | | | different from curare Vialox act at the same point of |
| are very sensitive to other chelating ingredients in the | | | | action: the post synaptic membrane where it blocks |
| formula and strong oxidizing-reducing ingredients. The | | | | the release of sodium ions. As a consequence of this |
| bioinorganic chemistry of peptides is complex. The | | | | the muscles stay relaxed. Already a new promising |
| peptides generally work in one of their three different | | | | product is lurking in the corner of cosmetic labs |
| specific intracellular forms and any disruption of this | | | | everywhere: A Swiss apple stem cells to protect skin |
| property can hinder their efficiency or alter their | | | | stem cells. |
| intended benefits. Your best bet is to found products | | | | This is the first in a series of reviews of cosmetics |
| which contain one or more form of peptide. A small | | | | and cosmetics products. There will be additional articles |
| but very good company is The Skin Society. All their | | | | in this series where additional insightful facts and tips |
| products contain one to three forms of peptide. | | | | will be provided on the topics of cosmetics, |
| Another point to be aware is the number of peptides | | | | cosmetology and women’s beauty and skin |
| in the chain is not a factor in the in the effectiveness | | | | health. |
| of the product. Often the advertising material for your | | | | |